Behind a sober shop window in central London stands the oldest hat shop in the worldwhich celebrates 350 years of history with an illustrious clientele ranging from Admiral Nelson and Winston Churchill to King Charles III, passing through Charles ChaplinPenélope Cruz or David Beckham.
Founded in 1676 and still in the hands of the same family, Lock & Co is one of the treasures of the stately St James’s Street, near the royal palace of the same name, a street that also houses the city’s first wine merchantas well as pharmacies, tobacco shops and shoe stores from the 17th and 18th centuries.
The manager, Maxwell Newman, receives EFE dressed in a classic suit, bow tie and beret, in keeping with an old environment where the dark wooden shelves accumulate luxurious hat boxes along with top hats, military caps and the model «Cambridge» with half-height glass, popularized by former Conservative Prime Minister Winston Churchill.
Lock & Co is proud to have invented the bowler hat in 1849 commissioned by the aristocrat Edward Coke, of Holkham Hall, in the county of Norfolk (eastern England), who wanted a stiff hat for protect his rangers from being hit by tree branches when they were on horseback.
Cult objects
«The bowler hat continues to be one of our most popular models. It is purchased by many American customers, although there is also national demand among retired military personnel, who use it in commemorative events. It is an almost cult piece,» declares Newman.
«Exported» by the actor Charles Chaplin, this hat with a rounded crown and narrow brim has become a global symbol of British identity, joining other historical pieces preserved in the store, such as the bicorn hat that Nelson wore at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805.
Among the most emblematic objects that adorn tables and walls (such as an unpaid bill for Irish writer Oscar Wilde, settled by an admirer after his death) features a «conformateur», a French invention to accurately measure the shape of the head which, according to the manager, «is still used daily.»
Framed are the results of the measurements of famous clients such as the actress Emma Watson, the designer Stella McCartney or the actor Pierce Brosnan.
A display case shows the wooden mold with the measurements of Isabel II made for adapt the imperial crown for his coronation in 1953as well as certificates of creations made for the Duke of Edinburgh.
A photograph of Charles III presides over the counter next to the royal seal that certifies that the firm is a supplier to the monarchy, although Newman is cautious when it comes to giving details about the royal family and the prices of the hats, which They range from hundreds to thousands of pounds.
Weddings and horse races
Millinery workers are preparing for an intense season of weddings and horse races such as Royal Ascot, in June, where women’s hats triumph.
Large pink bows, tulle designs and pieces of all sizes are displayed on the upper floor, which at this time is filled with clients from all over the world looking for the latest models to stand out at social engagements.
Women’s couture is made from scratch in the store, while for men, only bespoke models are made «on site», as many hats are already made and simply fitted.
Regarding adaptation to new times, Newman says that around 60% of the current clientele is international, especially from the United States, although they are looking to recover British styles to promote in the United Kingdom.
«The business is going through one of its best moments, partly thanks to the 350th anniversary and because there is renewed interest in classic tailoring,» he explains.
Although in Lock & Co. It is not unusual to see politicians or famous people enter, the manager emphasizes that they treat «everyone equally.»
«Long-time customers make the purchase in 15 minutes, but if a person specifically comes from abroad, we give them a «tour» and explain our entire history, so that they have a unique experience. After all, they have made a long trip to buy a hat,» he concludes.
EFE Agency.
GML
