The garden where the wind cooks

By Flavia Tomaello, https://flaviatomaello.blog/, Instagram @flavia.tomaello
Lecce keeps secrets behind its Renaissance walls. Between streets of golden stone and silences that smell like a ripe fig tree, there is a corner where gastronomy acquires narrative thickness. Zéphyr Restaurant is hidden inside La Fiermontina Luxury Home, embraced by an ancient olive grove and guarded by sculptures that belong to another era and, at the same time, to all. The entrance passes through a garden that imposes a slow pace, as if each step prepared the mood for an experience that transcends the act of sitting at the table.
The space breathes intimacy. Few tables generously distributed, dim lights that caress the stone and a secluded atmosphere that encourages conversation in a low voice. During the summer, dinner is set up outdoors, under the silvery canopies of ancient olive trees. Among the trunks appear monumental works, Le due sorelle by Fernand Léger, Armonia II by René Letourneur and La coppia by Jacques Zwobada, silent presences that seem to welcome. Inside, a sculpture occupies the center of the main room, La liberté, created by Zwobada in 1953, a piece that adds a symbolic dimension to the culinary experience.
At the head of the kitchen is Antonio De Carlo, born in 1996, part of a generation that understands tradition as a starting point and not as a limit. He grew up in Salento with an early inclination towards the stove. As a child he preferred to handle kitchen utensils rather than play conventional games. After graduating from the Alberghiero Institute in Otranto, he consolidated his professional training in his homeland and in leading establishments inside and outside the region. Among them are Conversano’s Pashà and chef Marcello Trentini’s Magorabin in Turin, experiences that broadened his vision and reinforced his discipline.
His philosophy is summarized in a phrase that he repeats as a personal guide, head down and performance high. The expression synthesizes humility and demand, two traits that run through his proposal. De Carlo’s cuisine is characterized by a conscious essentiality. Each ingredient occupies a precise place within the dish, selected with respect for its origin and temporality. The result is defined, direct compositions, capable of moving without resorting to unnecessary decorations.
The tour can begin with a ricciola tartare accompanied by almond milk, dried figs with almonds and bay leaves, a combination that combines marine freshness with vegetal and sweet notes. Another suggestive entry is the steamed egg with mushrooms, buffalo blue and roasted kale, a creation called Velo d’Autunno, where softness meets intense nuances. Among the first dishes, a reinterpretation of Triddhi stands out, ancient pasta crumbs that are presented here with butter flavored with Mediterranean herbs, Moroccan lemon and marinated fish. Also the pumpkin risotto with smoked olive butter and black olive powder, called Oro d’Ulivo, expresses a deep connection with the Salento landscape.
In the main section, the Sinfonia vegetale offers roasted cauliflower, spicy cauliflower kimchi, romanesco cabbage sauce and toasted black cabbage leaves, affirming the expressive power of the vegetable universe. The fish and meat options maintain that clear and defined line. Profumo Mediterraneo presents beef fillet with sautéed cicoria and lemon sauce, where the acidity provides balance and freshness.
Flavors that dialogue with history
Spices and certain oriental accents appear subtly in De Carlo’s proposal. His interest in these nuances translates into measured additions that add character without detracting from the identity of the dish. The perfume of lime passes through various preparations, from appetizers to desserts, generating an aromatic continuity that surprises with its coherence.
In the sweet field, the chef avoids labels, although his creations reveal audacity and sensitivity. The mustacciolo semifreddo glazed with salted cocoa crumble and chocolate ice cream offers an intense contrast between sweetness and toasted notes. The baked cheesecake with caramel, salt and red berries, titled Dolce Marea, shows a free approach that challenges classic formulas and opts for unexpected combinations.
The artistic context enhances each tasting. The figure of Antonia Fiermonte, a painter and violinist linked to the Parisian creative circles of the last century, permeates the spirit of the place. Muse of René Letourneur and Jacques Zwobada, her personal story is intertwined with the sculptures that accompany dinners today. Their descendants, Fouad Giacomo and Antonia Yasmina Filali, decided to share that legacy through this project that integrates art, nature and hospitality.
Zéphyr opens at noon with a light proposal and at night it displays a menu and two tasting menus that allow you to explore the chef’s vision in depth. The restaurant remains closed on Sundays, maintaining a rhythm that prioritizes concentration on each service. It is located in piazza Scipione De Summa 4, in Lecce, inside La Fiermontina Luxury Home.
Antonio De Carlo understands cooking as a process in constant evolution. Their desire to improve is reflected in each season and in each menu adjustment. Between ancient olive trees and 20th century sculptures, it transforms ingredients into edible stories. Zéphyr thus affirms itself as a space where creativity is expressed clearly and where each bite builds a bridge between territory, memory and emotion.