At three thirty in the morningwhen most are still in the deepest phases of sleep, Juan Alpuente is already on his feet. It is not any type of specific routine or exception, it is what he has been doing for almost three decades. While other businesses begin to raise the shutters, he has already been preparing the dough for hours, organizing the counter and heating oil so that, At six o’clock, everything is ready.
Because Juan has seen since he was little what it is like to run a business like this. He comes from a churrera family, from a father who started when he was 17 and built a project that today exceeds six decades of life. In this generational change, Juan has not only inherited a job, but also a way of understanding work: many hours, little recognition and a day-to-day resistance to keep an increasingly demanding business afloat.
For years it has been said that churrería is a hard and undervalued job. What do people really not see?
Above all the effort. For many years we have been like the ugly duckling of gastronomy. People think that making churros is water, flour and salt, something easy, but behind it there is very hard work and many hours. The churrero gets up very early, works a lot, and there are situations like festivals where you can spend an entire week working every day for 15 or 20 hours straight. You can’t see that from the outside, but it is the reality of the job.
What is a typical day in your life like, from the moment you wake up to the end?
I start at three thirty in the morning. The alarm clock rings, I get up and go straight to the churrería. I want to have the product practically ready when I open, so I make the dough for the churros, the dough for the porras, I check that nothing is missing and I leave everything ready so that the window is well presented.
I open at six, and the first few hours help me do all the work that is not seen: cleaning, organizing, filling, getting everything ready. Then people start coming, from workers finishing their shift to those starting the day. Normally I stay until one, and there are days when I even go longer. In the end they are days of about twelve hours a day. It’s a very hard routine, really.
Is this rhythm compatible with having a personal life?
It’s complicated. If you don’t organize yourself well, you don’t have a life.. For example, I used to also do afternoons, but I have been reducing it so I can dedicate time to my family and also to other projects, such as social networks. Even so, it’s still a lot of hours. There are days when, in addition to the normal day, you have to go shopping, prepare more product or do other tasks. It is a very absorbing job.
Can you live today as a churrero?
You can, but it costs more than before. Prices have nothing to do with those of 20 years ago. The oil is through the roof, the flour too, and all of that affects a lot. I am one of those who thinks that, if you manage to keep the business afloat and adapt, you can make a living from it. In my case, I try not to raise prices too much, because the situation is complicated for everyone. I earn less margin, but more people come, and in the end it compensates for volume.
The importance of being in the right place
What does it depend on for a churrería to work well?
Above all, of the location. I am in a privileged area, near the Teatre Nacional and the Auditori de Barcelona (Spain), and it shows. When there are events, a lot of people come out and if only a few stop, your day will work. On the other hand, in other places, such as smaller towns, it is more difficult to maintain the business throughout the week and many times only works on weekends.
In his case, he also comes from a churrera family.
Yes, my father started very young, at 17 years old, when he came from the village. He learned the trade and then started his own business. The churrería is more than 60 years old, so I have practically grown up in there, and even today it still comes with me many times. For me that also has a lot of value, because it is continuing something that comes from a long time ago.
Is there a generational change or is it a profession that is being lost?
Curiously, there is more interest than it seems. Since I make videos on social networks, many young people write to me because they want to start a churrería or do something related to gastronomy. Some have no experience, but it has piqued their curiosity. They ask me for advice, they want to learn… and that didn’t happen so much before.
What surprises people the most when they see how you work?
Above all the preparations. Many people do not know that the dough for churros and porras are not the same, even though the ingredients are similar. It is also very surprising to see how certain fried foods are made, how they react in the oil, how they change size… These are things that people don’t imagine until they see it.
The danger of making churros at home
What mistakes do people make when trying to make churros at home?
The most common is to follow recipes from the internet and make them with a pastry bag. That is very dangerous. There are people who have been burned because the dough explodes if it is not done well. I have received messages with photos of quite serious burns. That’s why I always say the same thing: it’s better to go to your trusted churrero and buy them.
Has the business changed much in recent years?
It has changed especially in creativity. Now you see churros with all kinds of toppingsvery striking combinations… but, honestly, what continues to work is the same as always: churros with chocolate. That doesn’t fail.
What is the key to making a churro really good?
The ingredients and how you work with them. Good flour, good oil and do it carefully. For example, I use olive pomace oil because it is very good for frying. And then there is the attitude: not doing it thinking only of making money, but of doing it well. When you do things with love, it shows.
If a young person wants to dedicate themselves to this, what would you advise them?
Let him first learn from within. Let him work in a churrería, let him see how everyday life works, let him understand the job. Starting a business requires money and experience, so it is best to train yourself first and then, when you are clear, take the step.
The Vanguard.
GML
